Friday, August 1, 2014

Revelry in Revelstoke


With my children happily en route to “Camp Aunt Robin,” The Husband and I headed out of town for 4 days of off-road adventures.  I like to try new trails in new areas, it gives me a chance to test my fitness and skills on unknown adventures. Mission successful! We chose Revelstoke for a couple of reasons: it’s close enough to drive in half a day, and I have been hankering to ride The Keystone Standard Basin trail ever since I heard about it 18 months ago. More on KSB to follow….

Day 1: Drive from Calgary to Revelstoke and get organized
After we finally got rolling late Friday morning, Revelstoke welcomed us with blue skies. Our B&B, The Courthouse Inn (loved it! Highly recommended!), is located within 10min walk of historic downtown, and the owners and hosts were warm and full of great ideas for local eateries and attractions.

We also checked out one of the local bike shops, Flowt, who were keen to share their knowledge of local trails and were a great source of info.  Thanks guys! They also freely dispense the local trail maps, good for helping to determine routes and distances. 

We decided on a “short” trail run before dinner, and both the B&B and Flowt agreed that the “5k” loop would be a good choice (note: the 5km goes in one direction to the apex of the loop, making the total distance a 10km loop).  We started at the Rail Museum and headed UP through the trees, under Hwy 1, and continued going UP for almost 5km! There is an add-on loop at the end of the trail, “Inspiration Loop” and while it was an absolutely gorgeous Ewok forest trail, I was finding it tough to be inspired – until I started to run downhill, which was certainly a relief after climbing for 45min.  I’m pretty happy with my running this year, my feet move faster and I have better longevity. I’m not positive I’m faster on the trails (certainly faster on pavement, but it’s tough to judge off-road), but I am able to keep my feet underneath me while climbing most hills, and I certainly take fewer walk-breaks than I used to.  Consistency has been the name of the game. This loop trail is used in winter for XC skiing, but it’s perfect for a quick trail run during the summer, loamy underfoot and well-trodden singletrack. 

We headed to The Village Idiot post-run for some supper, where the local brewery, Mt Begbie, was on tap and the pizza was delicious, filling, and large enough to take for lunch the next day!

Our B&B had amazing, 3-course, 5-star breakfasts.  I enjoyed a large bowl of fruit topped with crème fraiche, egg soufflé, and “dessert” each morning. Dessert was fresh banana, blueberry or chocolate muffin-cake-morsels of goodness.  Yummy. 

KSB is not for the faint of heart, but if you want to ride through high-alpine meadows bursting with wildflowers, watch waterfalls tumble and rumble from astonishing heights, and challenge both your technical and fitness skills, you will be in heaven.

It is located approx. 50km north of Revelstoke on Hwy 23, where you then drive along a fire road for close to 14km. The trailhead is well marked and has a unique outhouse.

At the trailhead for KSB, excited to ride!
The initial 100m out of the parking lot are hell: large, loose rocks, steep pitch, and an adoring audience in the parking lot as they assemble their kits.  After that, you have to survive the cardiac-arrest inducing technical 1.5km climb through a clearcut up to the tree line.  

This view awaits you - if you survive the first 1.5-2km!
It is worth persevering, because from this point forward, you enjoy clear, almost 360 degree views, with panoramas of the entire basin as you circle counter-clockwise around the basin before heading up and over the ridge. The trail continues to climb, descend, climb some more, then descend, climb again…. You get the picture! From the first viewpoint, you can see a tall waterfall – that’s your first checkpoint. 
Time to start climbing again...
From here, you ascend a large boulder field (we encountered some large snow patches to traverse), and head up a very steep z-switchback. I would love to meet the people who can ride this beast, it’s wicked! Once up the switchback, you traverse the cliff, surrounded by wildflowers whose stems and greenery hide the true extremity of the pitch. I didn’t appreciate the exposure until the return trip, which was downhill along said cliff.  Eek!

Gorgeous ride thru fields of wildflowers on a wicked pitch, whose true steepness is (thankfully!) masked by the flowers. 

Once off the face of the mountain, you head up some more into true alpine, where the floor is blanketed in moss campion and saxifrage and more wildflowers than I could dream of! Here is where the 50mm of rain that fell in the previous week were noticed. The early sections of the trail were well-drained and virtually mud-free.  Once over the ridge, we noticed considerable stretches of mud and standing water. I’m sure a few days of hot sun would dry this out, but it did look like some serious trail damage could be an issue, both from trail braiding and from deep trenches. We did our best to ride through the muck and tried to leave minimal impact. We started to descend to the small lake and seasonal snowmobiler cabin, where we luxuriated in the view, relatively free from the dreaded mosquitos and horseflies that are rumoured to live up here.  Our day was relatively cool – only 18 C with a bit of a breeze – so the monsters weren’t around. I would put good money on an infestation and feeding frenzy if the temp were about 20C in a few days time!

No flies - today...
We took our time eating lunch, and eventually mounted up for the 2km climb out of the valley and back to our trail. The ride home was net downhill, but the trail has plenty of ups and downs along the way. The dreaded exposure on the cliff, and the steep z-switchback gave us some pause along the way, but the ride ended all-too-soon.
The Husband followed my example and opted out of the tricky descent, there can be high consequences if you miss the line. 
I survived the first climb, ready to enjoy the Basin.
Overall, this was a tough, technical ride that required good fitness to finish without being a complete mess for a week post-ride. It is entirely worth the effort and I would claim it is the premiere ride in the area!


 The beauty of the ride, the variety of terrain, and the quality of the trail leave me breathless. I feel privileged to have ridden a trail of this caliber.  In retrospect, having also ridden Frisby Ridge, I will give KSB the edge as being my favourite trail for the weekend, it left me breathless and astonished.  It was fantastic in the Tennessee Williams sense. Highly, highly recommended. 

We dined at the Woolsey Creek Bistro – OMG, gourmet food at the end of a long ride is the best way to celebrate! The chefs here are stunning. Go check it out.

Great effort, time, and money has been invested over the past few years into the Mount MacPherson trails, located within 10 min of Revelstoke on Hwy 23 south.

Here is the trail combo that we rode:
Flowdown to Dusty Beaver, up View to Buff Enuff, along Tight Rope to go down Berm Donor, across Tamtrum (I almost had one!), back up Buff Enuff, across Tight Rope again to go up the other side of Berm Donor to Dusty Beaver and descend Flowdown. Thanks to the boys at Flowt for this route, it was kick-ass!  

Good note: the local trail-building association organized a sponsorship for printing the maps, which are FREE and available at both bike shops and at the BC tourist info centre. The maps are incredibly accurate, but not very durable (I taped mine with packaging tape to keep it from splitting along the seams).

The trails climb and wind their way through an old-growth forest that belongs on Endor, across a cut-block that has regenerated into a lush patch of beauty, and along the edge of some ridges.  The trails are truly buff, well-maintained, well-signed and rated according to their difficulty. We even ran into a Spin Sister along the way (hi Gwyneth!). There is a little something for everyone in this forest, smooth riding for beginners, roots and drops for those who have a bit more experience, and thrilling DH gnarly technical shit for the advanced riders.  We are looking forward to returning to Revelstoke to explore more of the trails in this area, they were excellent!

This was our “easy” day, so after 4 hours of fun we headed for Halcyon Hot Springs, an hour drive and ferry ride south.  We dined like royalty and enjoyed a soak in the world’s best mineral springs. No kidding, these springs are reputed to have the best mineral concentration of lithium, sulphur and others that are ideal for healing. All I can say is this: my legs, after three days of pretty extreme output, felt recovered and zippy on Day 4.

Day 4: Frisby Ridge
All weekend long, we encountered other riders who positively raved about this trail. We had it listed as our #2 must-ride for the trip, so we were looking forward to seeing how it would ride. We were worried about reports of snow at the higher elevations, and we had been warned about extensive mud, and of course, the annoying, ever-present and painful horseflies (these monsters have bodies roughly the size of my thumbnail!). The locals are proud of this new trail, and it’s been groomed and sculpted to perfection. We were also prepared for some amazing views and enjoying another day of mountain biking in the high alpine meadows.

All of it came true!
Almost at the Lake - beautiful alpine meadows in bloom
The trail was incredible: I didn’t fully appreciate the technical elements on the way up. We rode for just under 2 hours, entirely uphill. There were a few spots that I would consider “technical,” but I was heavily focused on keeping my legs moving and riding uphill. I think my Garmin recorded a steady heart-rate of 153bmp for approx. 1:15 before I decided to refuel for the final push to the top. When riding this trail, it’s not a tough technical climb, it’s just relentless, you have to be willing to keep the legs spinning with some torque on the pedals for a long time, all while tolerating the steady, unrelenting buzz of the horseflies that keep you company for the duration of your ride. If you can do this, you will be rewarded with vistas and wildflowers and alpine lakes that are unmatched. The trail ultimately descends to a small lake (good for filtering some water for the return trip – bring a water filter!) and a cabin where you can take refuge from the horseflies, which is almost anti-climactic in comparison to the views you had on the ridge.  

Cabin beside the lake offered respite from horseflies.
The ride down makes all the climbing even more valuable, because you will get to appreciate the technical side of the buff trail you muscled up, while still marvelling in your surroundings.  Yes, it sounds like I’m gushing, but the scenery was amazing.

Post-ride we headed to Williamson Lake, the local swimming hole, to go for a quick dip before jumping back in the truck for the long drive home. A great little lake fit for families on a hot day.

Overall, riding in Revelstoke has something for every level of rider, but the big rides, both KSB and Frisby, require some strong base fitness and technical chops. Both are a great way to step up your abilities while still enjoying the panoramas.  I feel very honoured and blessed to visit these amazing areas. 



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